I have to take time to insure I do not build myself into a corner and make a mistake that requires major surgery to repair) I like to cut out the structures to be assembled from the plan and tape them to the building board individually. To facilitate this, I take the plans to Kinko's or Staples copy center and have a duplicate made for that purpose. It only costs about $4-$5 to do this so it is a worthwhile investment to keep your original plans unmarked.
I use 3M “magic” tape to hold the plans
to the board because it holds…and it releases when finished. I tape the
plans first and then I place waxed paper over them and tape that to the board
as well. Now might be a good time to discuss building boards. I use building
boards made by Wright Engineering . The last time I visited their web site,
about 4 or five years ago, the company was for sale and I cannot find them
listed online anymore; But their product might be available through Ebay from
other modelers. A 2000 review of the Wright Building board can be found
here:.
It will give you a good idea of the building board's capabilities and it is
a good model to acquiring or building your own. A good, flat building board
is an essential part of model building.
“Pin Clamps”(above) are little plastic
collars that allow T-pins to hold wood down efficiently without pinning
through the wood.
A good scale is not required to build the Airborn But you will find it “invaluable “ in your model building. This one I got at Costco for under $30. I goes from tenths of an ounce to 5 pounds and reads in Pounds and Ounces or Kilos and grams
But, let's get to
building! The Fuselage is constructed of 1/8 inch square Balsa sticks. With
the cutout of the fuselage plan copy taped to the building board, cover it
with waxed paper or Tower Plan protector (clear plastic that is used in protecting
Monokote™film covering) I start by cutting and pinning the longerons to
the plan. I use "Rocket City" Pin Clamps on my "T" pins
to enable a solid hold without pinning through the balsa and splitting the
wood.
Since you will be building two identical sides, cut two identical uprights for each position before gluing to insure the same length. I use a Fourmost Products Miter-Master(left) to precisely sand the upright to length
This falls into the category of" I'm good but NOT
perfect" with a hobby knife. I have learned to cut a little "proud"(long)
and sand to exact length from my friend, Eddie Hamler, someone I, and others,
consider a master builder. I tell my wife that "when I grow up,I want
to be just like Ed Hamler!" That would be a worthy goal for any model
builder!!!
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